EGR Cooler Replacement for 6.7 Powerstroke: Step-by-Step with Pro Tips

Table of Contents

1. Tools and Parts Needed
2. Step-by-Step Replacement Guide
3. EGR Cooler Differences Across 6.7 Powerstroke Model Years
4. Conclusion
5. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Replacing the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) cooler on a Ford 6.7L Power Stroke diesel can restore proper exhaust gas flow and prevent engine performance issues. The 6.7 Power Stroke (2011–present) uses a single EGR cooler mounted on top of the passenger side valve cover to cool exhaust gases before they re-enter the intake.

Over time, this cooler can clog with soot or fail, leading to trouble codes like P0401 (EGR insufficient flow) and poor performance. The good news is that the 6.7's EGR cooler is easier to access and replace than the dual cooler setup on the older 6.4L engines.

This guide provides a detailed step by step procedure for advanced DIYers and mechanics to replace the EGR cooler on a 6.7 Powerstroke, along with pro tips to make the job smoother. We'll also highlight differences in the process for various model years (2011–2014, 2015–2016, 2017–2019, and 2020+) so you can be prepared for any year specific quirks.

Tools and Parts Needed

Before you begin, gather the necessary tools, parts, and supplies. Here's a checklist to ensure you have everything on hand:

Essential Parts

• Replacement EGR Cooler – Either an OEM Ford EGR cooler assembly or an aftermarket unit
  
  
  • For 2011–2016 trucks, the OEM cooler core is part number BC3Z-9V425-A (with gasket kit BC3Z-9P455-B)
  • Many aftermarket options exist (e.g. Dorman 904-405 kit) that include the cooler core and gaskets
  • Make sure you get the correct cooler for your model year (see year differences below)
• Gasket and Seal Kit – New gaskets/O-rings for all EGR cooler connections
  
  
• Coolant – Ford approved coolant to refill the system
  
  • The 6.7L has two cooling systems (primary engine cooling and a secondary system for the intercooler/EGR)
  • Both will need to be drained and refilled
  • Have enough coolant on hand for a full refill

Required Tools

• Basic Hand Tools – A socket set (common sizes 8mm, 10mm, 13mm), ratchet and extensions, open end wrenches, screwdrivers, and pliers
  
  
• A 10mm socket is typically needed for many fasteners (e.g. EGR cooler mounting bolts, PCM bracket bolts)
• Hose Clamp Pliers – Or channel lock pliers for loosening the spring clamps on coolant hoses
  
  
• Drain Pan – To catch coolant (at least 5+ gallons capacity, since you'll drain both coolant loops)
  
  
• Penetrating Oil – To help loosen stubborn exhaust bolts
  
  
• A quality penetrating oil will be useful on the EGR tube bolts which can be rusted and prone to breaking
• Pry Bar or Flat Blade – A small pry bar or large flat screwdriver
  
  
• To gently pry out the EGR cooler core from its housing if you are replacing just the core
• Also useful for loosening hoses or stuck parts
• Torque Wrench – Recommended for reassembly to tighten bolts to factory spec
  
  
• If available, consult a service manual for exact torque values, especially for engine intake/cooler bolts

Pro Tip: If your replacement unit is a core only kit (common in aftermarket solutions), it will require transferring the EGR cooler housing and possibly the EGR valve from the old unit. If it's a complete assembly (housing, cooler core, and EGR valve together), the swap is more straightforward. Double check what your kit includes so you know if you must disassemble the old cooler housing or not.

Step-by-Step Replacement Guide

Follow these steps to replace the EGR cooler on your 6.7 Powerstroke. These instructions are generalized for 2011–2019 trucks; any year specific differences are noted along the way. Always work with a cool engine (to avoid burns), unless otherwise noted for specific tips, and disconnect the negative battery cables for safety when doing major engine work.

Step 1: Prep the Truck and Drain Coolant

• Park on a level surface and ensure the engine is completely cool
• Begin by disconnecting the batteries (at least the negative terminals) to avoid any electrical shorts during the job
• Next, drain the engine coolant
• Place a drain pan under the radiator and open the radiator petcock valve (or remove the lower radiator hose) to drain the primary cooling system
• On the 6.7 Powerstroke there are two coolant circuits – one primary loop for the engine and another secondary loop for the EGR and intercooler
• Be sure to drain both systems: the primary radiator and the secondary (EGR) coolant loop

Pro Tip: Remove the radiator cap when draining – this lets air in and allows coolant to flow out faster. Once drained, reinstall/close the petcock and dispose of old coolant safely. (You'll refill with fresh coolant later.)

Step 2: Remove Intake and Air Filter Assembly

• For easier access to the EGR cooler, remove the intake components on the passenger side
• Open the air filter box lid and pull out the air filter
• Then loosen the clamp on the intake tube where it attaches to the engine (intake manifold/throttle body area)
• Detach any sensors or hoses on the intake tube
• Remove the plastic intake tube and set it aside, along with the filter lid

This opens up space above the engine on the passenger side, exposing the EGR cooler sitting on top of the passenger side valve cover.

Step 3: Disconnect PCM and Clear Harnesses

• The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is mounted near the passenger side firewall area and may obstruct the EGR cooler removal
• Unbolt the PCM bracket and carefully move the PCM and its bracket out of the way
• You don't need to unplug the PCM completely; just unbolt and push it aside enough to gain clearance
• Also, look for any wiring harnesses or plastic trays attached around the EGR cooler
• For example, a plastic wire loom/tray underneath the cooler
• Remove the two bolts holding that harness tray under the EGR cooler (usually 10mm bolts) to free the wiring from the cooler housing
• This prevents straining the harness when you pull the cooler out

Additional considerations:

• On some model years there are plastic push pin clips securing an injector wire insulator or foam piece to the EGR cooler
• Pry out or unsnap those push pins to detach any such insulators from the cooler housing
• The goal is to ensure no wires or small components are still clipped to the cooler assembly

Step 4: Disconnect EGR Cooler Coolant Hoses

• The EGR cooler has an inlet and outlet coolant hose (bringing coolant in and out of the cooler)
• Use pliers to squeeze the hose clamps and slide them back
• Then carefully twist and remove the rubber hoses off the cooler's fittings
• Some residual coolant may spill, so have rags ready
• If the hoses are stuck, a gentle twist with pliers or using a pick to loosen the hose end can help

Pro Tip: Note that the style of hose fittings can differ by year:

• Earlier models use simple hose barb fittings
• Some later models use quick connect style couplers
• If your new cooler uses a different style fitting (barb vs quick connect) than your old one, you may need an adapter or minor retrofit to attach the hoses
• It's best to get a cooler designed for your year to avoid this issue

Step 5: Remove the EGR Crossover Pipe

• On the front of the engine, there is an exhaust crossover pipe that connects the EGR cooler to the engine's exhaust system
• This pipe feeds exhaust gas into the cooler
• It is often a small tube running from the passenger side exhaust manifold/up pipe into the EGR cooler
• Locate the flange where this EGR feed tube attaches to the exhaust manifold (usually two bolts) as well as where it meets the cooler
• Remove the bolts at the front exhaust crossover pipe connection so that the pipe can be moved out of the way
• You might leave one end connected and just swing it aside, or fully remove the pipe if necessary
• Disconnect any sensor on this pipe (e.g. an EGT sensor) if it impedes moving the pipe
• Often the temperature sensor can stay plugged in if you carefully set the pipe aside

Step 6: Unbolt the EGR Outlet Tube (Long Tube to Manifold)

In addition to the front crossover, there is a long EGR tube that runs from the EGR cooler outlet back into the intake (or from exhaust manifold to cooler on some setups). This is typically secured with two bolts on the up pipe or manifold where it originates:

• Locate the two upward facing bolts securing this tube (they may be at the back of the exhaust manifold feeding into the cooler)
• Spray these bolts generously with penetrating oil, and let it soak a minute
• Then carefully break them loose with the correct socket

Pro Tip: These bolts are notorious for seizing and breaking due to exhaust heat and soot. To reduce the chance of breakage, some mechanics suggest doing this step with the engine warm:

• Run the engine to heat up the exhaust manifold
• Then shut it off and immediately crack these bolts loose while the metal is hot (thermal expansion can help)
• Either way, work them back and forth gently after penetrating oil
• If a bolt does break, don't panic – there are extraction kits (like the ProMAXX Nino kit) designed to drill out and repair broken EGR tube bolts on the 6.7
• But with patience and penetrating oil, you can usually get them out intact
• Remove the two bolts and detach the EGR tube from the cooler

Step 7: Unplug Sensors and Vacuum Lines

• The EGR cooler assembly may have sensors (such as EGR temperature sensors) or a small vacuum line (for the EGR bypass valve, if equipped) attached
• At the front of the cooler housing, disconnect any electrical connectors
• For example, unplug the EGR bypass valve actuator or pressure sensors on the cooler housing
• Also disconnect any vacuum lines attached to the cooler or its actuator
• Take photos if needed to remember each connection
• Ensure all such lines and connectors are free from the cooler so they won't snag during removal

Step 8: Unbolt the EGR Cooler Assembly

Now the cooler itself is ready to come out:

• It is secured to the top of the engine (intake manifold/valve cover area) with several bolts or nuts
• Remove all the bolts holding the EGR cooler housing in place
• Typically there are a few along the top and possibly one or two hidden below or on brackets
• Double check that you've got them all
• Once the fasteners are out, the cooler still may not budge
• It sits on alignment dowels and can be sealed tight from the gasket
• Carefully pry up on the cooler housing to break it free
• It may require some wiggling and upward force – take care not to damage the mating surface on the intake manifold
• After it pops loose from the dowels, lift the entire EGR cooler assembly up and out of the engine bay
• It is a bit heavy and may have residual coolant inside, so keep it level and set it aside in a drain pan

Step 9: Swap the Cooler Core (if needed)

With the EGR cooler assembly out, you may need to transfer parts depending on your replacement:

• If you have a complete new EGR cooler assembly, you can skip ahead
• But if you only have a new EGR cooler core to install into the old housing, you'll now disassemble the cooler

Disassembly process:

• Typically, you would remove bolts that connect the front cover/housing to the main cooler body
• Separate the housing halves to access the cooler core inside
• You may have to press or pry the old cooler core out of the housing
• It can be snug due to O rings and carbon
• Use a flat tool to carefully pry the core out, being cautious not to gouge the sealing surfaces
• (On some units you might press it out by pushing on it evenly from the opposite side)
• Remove any old seals or gaskets

Pro Tip: Take this opportunity to also clean out carbon buildup from the EGR passages if accessible:

• For instance, clean the EGR valve and intake runner in the housing
• Ensure the new cooler core will seat on a clean surface
• Also compare the old core to the new one
• You might notice the factory core has smaller passages that were clogged with soot (especially on 2011–2016 models)
• Whereas some updated coolers have larger flow passages to resist clogging

Step 10: Install the New EGR Cooler (Core or Assembly)

Prepare the new cooler or core for installation:

• Install any new seals or O ring gaskets on the cooler
• Lightly lubricate O rings with clean coolant or a bit of silicone grease to help them slide without tearing

For new core installation:

• If you are inserting a new core into the old housing, first place any inner metal gasket or plate in the housing as directed by your kit
• Then push the new cooler core down into the housing
• Press it in evenly – you might use a flat piece of wood or a plate to press it until it seats fully into the base
• Reattach the front cover of the housing with its bolts (except for any you're instructed to leave off until mounting, if applicable)

For complete assembly:

• If it's a full assembly, ensure the new unit has the EGR valve installed (if not, transfer your old EGR valve to the new cooler now with a new gasket)

Final installation:

• Now lower the new EGR cooler assembly into place on the engine
• Make sure to use new gaskets between the cooler and the intake/valve cover mounting surface
• Line up any dowels and set the cooler down
• Start all the mounting bolts by hand and then tighten them securely in a crisscross pattern
• If you have torque specs, use them here to avoid overtightening (the aluminum intake manifold can be damaged by excessive torque)

Step 11: Reassemble Remaining Components

With the cooler bolted in, work backwards to reconnect everything:

Reconnect pipes and tubes:

• Reattach the long EGR tube to the exhaust manifold with its two bolts (using a new gasket if provided for that flange)
• Reinstall the front crossover pipe and tighten its bolts

Reconnect sensors and lines:

• Reconnect any sensors or vacuum lines to the new cooler
• Plug in electrical connectors
• Reattach vacuum hoses in their original positions

Reconnect coolant system:

• Slide the coolant hoses back onto the cooler fittings and secure them with their clamps

Reinstall other components:

• Double check that every connector, hose, and bolt removed earlier is now back in place (use your notes or photos)
• Re bolt the PCM bracket and put the PCM securely back into position
• Reattach the wire harness tray under the cooler (the one with two bolts) if you removed it
• Push any plastic clips back into the cooler housing to secure nearby wiring or insulators

Reinstall intake system:

• Reinstall the air intake tube and air filter box
• Connect the intake tube, tighten the clamp, and plug in any sensors you unplugged
• Put the air filter and lid back on

Step 12: Refill Coolant and Final Checks

• Ensure the drain plugs/petcocks are closed
• Then refill both cooling systems with the correct coolant
• The 6.7L has a primary coolant reservoir (engine cooling) and a secondary reservoir (for the EGR/intercooler loop)
• Fill both to the proper level

Pro Tip: It helps to fill slowly and allow air to bleed:

• You may squeeze hoses or use a vacuum fill tool to avoid air locks
• Once filled, reconnect the battery
• Start the engine and let it idle, topping up coolant as air purges out

Final inspection:

• Check for leaks around the EGR cooler area – both coolant leaks and exhaust leaks
• Verify that the hose connections and pipe flanges are dry and tight
• As the engine warms up, also ensure the thermostat opens and coolant circulates
• Then recheck levels and add coolant if needed
• Finally, clear any EGR related fault codes if present (with a scan tool) and take the truck for a test drive
• Monitor for proper operation: no coolant loss, no exhaust leaks (hissing or soot), and that the P0401 (if you had it) stays off

By following these steps, you should have successfully replaced the EGR cooler on your 6.7 Powerstroke. In the next section, we'll outline differences across model years – since Ford made some updates to the EGR system through the 6.7L's production, it's useful to know what changed and how that might affect your replacement process.

EGR Cooler Differences Across 6.7 Powerstroke Model Years

The basic procedure above applies to all 6.7L Power Stroke engines, but there are some important year to year differences to be aware of. Ford introduced updates in 2015 and again in 2017 that affected the EGR cooler design and related components. Here's a breakdown of the most popular year ranges and what's different in each:

2011–2014 6.7L (First Generation)

These early 6.7 Powerstroke engines have the original EGR cooler design and use the dual cooling system exactly as described:

• The EGR cooler on 2011–2014 is fed by the secondary coolant loop, which has its own small radiator and degas bottle
• The cooler and gaskets for these years are unique
• For example, the Ford OEM cooler core (BC3Z-9V425-A) and gasket kit (9P455-B) are specified mainly for 2011–2014 trucks

Known issues:

• One known issue with the 2011–2014 stock EGR coolers is that their internal coolant passageways are somewhat narrow, which can lead to soot clogging over time
• Replacements (especially aftermarket "OE fix" coolers) often have revised core designs to reduce clogging

Replacement notes:

• The replacement process for these years is as outlined in the main guide
• Just note to fully drain the secondary coolant circuit because the EGR cooler is tied into it

2015–2016 6.7L (Mid-Cycle Update)

In 2015, Ford made several updates to the 6.7 engine ("Gen2" of the 6.7, still in the old truck body style):

Major changes:

• Along with a new turbo and fuel system changes, the EGR cooler's coolant feed was changed
• The section of the EGR cooler that previously used the separate secondary coolant loop was re routed to draw from the heater core supply line (engine's main cooling loop)
• In simple terms, from 2015 onward the EGR cooler is integrated into the primary cooling system rather than the auxiliary system

Practical implications:

• This means the hoses and fittings on the EGR cooler changed in 2015
• For instance, one hose now ties into the heater core line
• When replacing the cooler on a 2015–2016, you will still drain coolant (both circuits, to be safe), but the refilling/burping procedure might differ slightly as the cooler shares coolant with the engine loop

Parts differences:

• Also, the gasket design changed: 2015+ EGR coolers use different gaskets than the 2011–2014
• As noted by one Ford technician, the updated models have a different gasket set and part number
• Ensure you get the correct cooler and gasket kit for 2015/2016
• Many aftermarket kits will specify 2011–2016 coverage, often including adapter fittings if needed

Process changes:

• Aside from coolant routing and gaskets, the physical removal process is very similar
• One upside of the 2015 update: some of the component rearrangements (like a redesigned lower intake and exhaust backpressure tube) may actually make pulling the EGR cooler a bit easier than before (slightly more clearance to work)

2017–2019 6.7L (Second Generation Super Duty)

The 2017 model year brought the next generation Super Duty trucks with a revised 6.7L engine (often called the 6.7 "3rd generation" engine internally, but it's the second major refresh):

Design updates:

• Ford carried over the EGR cooler concept from 2015, with likely some minor improvements
• The EGR cooler part number changed (2017+ use an updated cooler, often referenced by part # starting with HC3Z-9V425, replacing the old BC3Z-9V425)
• However, the core design and mounting remained similar, and Ford did not dramatically relocate anything

Replacement process:

• This means the replacement procedure remains about the same as on 2015–2016

Improvements:

• The updated OEM cooler may have slightly larger internal flow passages or other enhancements to reduce clogging
• Some owners have noted the newer coolers seem less prone to plugging than the early ones
• In fact, the Bulletproof Diesel aftermarket cooler that fits 2011–2024 specifically highlights how it's especially beneficial for 2011–2016 trucks (implying 2017+ factory coolers were already improved)

Parts compatibility:

• If you're replacing a cooler on a 2017–2019, get the part specific to those years if buying OEM
• The hoses should be the same style as 2015–2016 (primary system feed)
• Notably, a forum source mentions that any revisions made to the EGR cooler were done by the 2nd gen 6.7
• By 2020, Ford didn't change the cooler again
• So the 2017–2019 EGR cooler is essentially the design carried into 2020+

2020+ 6.7L (Third Generation Updates)

The 2020 model year brought another power bump and some upgrades (e.g. new 10 speed transmission and engine tweaks):

Design continuity:

• According to Ford forums, the EGR cooler in 2020+ trucks carried over unchanged from the 2017–2019 design
• So, a replacement on a 2020 or newer F-250/F-350 will be very similar to the 2017–2019 process

Minor differences:

• The only differences might be in related components
• For example, 2020+ engines have new electronics and more emissions equipment changes, but physically the EGR cooler's location and connections are the same

Parts compatibility:

• Always verify part compatibility for 2020+ models
• Many aftermarket coolers now list coverage through 2021 or 2022 as well, since Ford didn't redesign the cooler itself

Warranty considerations:

• If you're working on a very new truck (under warranty), consider that EGR cooler failure is less common at early age
• Ensure to diagnose properly or use warranty service if applicable
• But for completeness, we include them here as essentially the same as 2017–2019 in terms of replacement steps

Pro Tip: When ordering parts, use your truck's VIN or year to get the correct EGR cooler and gasket kit. Some sellers list one cooler fitting 2011–2019, which usually includes adapter fittings for the hose differences. OEM Ford parts after 2017 may supersede to the new design that fits earlier years too. And if you're upgrading, an aftermarket "Bulletproof" style cooler can often be installed on any 2011–2024 truck as a more robust solution.

Conclusion

Replacing the EGR cooler on a 6.7 Powerstroke is a challenging job, but with detailed steps and the right tools, it's achievable for experienced DIYers and mechanics. A successful EGR cooler replacement will resolve issues like exhaust gas flow codes and prevent coolant from leaking or boiling in a failed cooler.

Remember to work patiently and methodically:

• Drain the coolant fully
• Keep track of all connections
• Use new gaskets and seals during reassembly

Paying attention to the pro tips – such as soaking exhaust bolts with penetrant and checking for year specific differences – will save you headaches and time. After installation, always verify that there are no leaks (exhaust or coolant) and that the engine's cooling system is properly bled and filled.

With the new EGR cooler in place, your 6.7 Powerstroke will be able to recirculate exhaust gases efficiently, keeping emissions in check and performance on point. Not only have you fixed a common weak link, but you've also gained the confidence that comes with tackling a complex repair step by step. Safe driving, and enjoy the restored reliability of your Powerstroke!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What are the symptoms of a bad EGR cooler on a 6.7 Powerstroke?

Common signs include white exhaust smoke (especially on startup), coolant loss without visible leaks, pressure buildup in the degas bottle, poor fuel economy, and trouble codes like P0401 or P0402. In some cases, you may also notice reduced throttle response or engine surging.

Can I delete the EGR cooler instead of replacing it?

While EGR deletes are popular in off-road or race applications, they are illegal on public roads in the United States and violate the Clean Air Act. Deleting emissions equipment can result in fines and void your warranty. If you want long-term reliability, consider an upgraded EGR cooler rather than deleting it.

How long does it take to replace the EGR cooler on a 6.7 Powerstroke?

An experienced DIYer with all the right tools can complete the job in 4 to 6 hours, depending on model year and familiarity. A professional shop may do it faster. Factors like rusted EGR tube bolts or tight coolant hose fittings can increase the time needed.

Do I need to remove the turbo to replace the EGR cooler?

No. The EGR cooler on the 6.7 Powerstroke is accessible without removing the turbo. Unlike the 6.4 Powerstroke (which has more complicated cooler routing), the 6.7's single cooler sits on top of the passenger side valve cover and can be accessed from above.

Is there a difference between OEM and aftermarket EGR coolers?

Yes. OEM coolers from Ford are direct replacements but may not solve the clogging issue long term. Many aftermarket EGR coolers feature larger internal passages, TIG welded stainless construction, and other improvements to increase durability. Brands like Bostech offer remanufactured options designed to outperform OEM standards.

Should I replace any other parts while I'm in there?

It's a good time to inspect or replace:

• The EGR valve, if it's original or carboned up
• Coolant hoses and clamps for cracks or wear
• The EGR cooler gaskets and seals
• The thermostat, if you suspect poor coolant flow
• Install a coolant filtration system to help prevent future cooler clogs

Will replacing the EGR cooler fix white smoke from the exhaust?

If the white smoke is caused by coolant leaking into the intake via a cracked or clogged EGR cooler, then yes. However, white smoke can also be caused by head gasket failure, injector issues, or turbo seal leaks. Proper diagnosis is key before replacement.

What kind of coolant does the 6.7 Powerstroke use?

Ford recommends Motorcraft Specialty Orange coolant (Ford VC-3DIL-B or equivalent) for 6.7 Powerstroke models. It's important not to mix coolant types and to maintain the correct mixture for optimal cooling and EGR system performance.

Sources:

• ProMAXX Tool, "How To Replace An EGR Cooler, Even When The Bolts Are Broken" – step by step 6.7L EGR cooler replacement guide.
• Diesel Technician Society forums – notes on 2015 model year EGR cooler coolant re route (secondary system vs heater core line).
• BulletProof Diesel product info – indicating one EGR cooler fits 2011–2024 and noting early OEM coolers had smaller, clog prone passages.
• Ford Powerstroke forums and owner insights – various tips on differences in 2015+ models (coolant hose fittings, gaskets) and common trouble points on 2015–2019 (EGR cooler flow).
• PowerStrokeHelp.com – comparison of 6.7 vs 6.4 EGR cooler design (single cooler on 6.7 is cheaper and easier to service).
• OEM Parts references – Ford part numbers for EGR coolers and gasket kits for 6.7L (2011–2016 BC3Z-9V425-A, etc.).